Orlebar Brown
2018
Why
Chanel took a majority stake in the London men's resort-wear brand.
Impact
Gave Chanel a foothold in premium menswear without using its own name.
Outcome
Operates as an independent brand.
Chanel S.A.
Luxury Goods and FashionFounded 1910- HQ today: Paris, France
Reviewed by Swet Parvadiya
Company data updated: October 2026
Acquisitions
Chanel Acquisitions
4
Major Deals Covered
What are Chanel's biggest acquisitions?
This page covers 4 major deals from 1996 to 2018, each with its price where disclosed and the reason behind it.
- Major deals covered
- 4
- First deal
- 1996
- Most recent
- 2018
| Company | Year | Price | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Holland & Holland | 1996 | Undisclosed | Chanel's owners bought the London gunmaker and outfitter as a heritage British luxury label. |
| Eres | 1996 | Undisclosed | Added a French luxury swimwear and lingerie label known for fabric innovation. |
| Paraffection ateliers (Lesage, Lemarié, Massaro, Desrues and others) | 1997 | Undisclosed | Through its Paraffection subsidiary, Chanel began buying specialist couture suppliers in embroidery, featherwork, shoemaking, buttons and jewelry to preserve their skills. |
| Orlebar Brown | 2018 | Undisclosed | Chanel took a majority stake in the London men's resort-wear brand. |
- What companies has Chanel bought?
- Major acquisitions by Chanel documented here include Orlebar Brown (2018), Paraffection ateliers (Lesage, Lemarié, Massaro, Desrues and others) (1997), Holland & Holland (1996) and Eres (1996).
- What is Chanel's most recent acquisition?
- The most recent Chanel acquisition documented here is Orlebar Brown, in 2018.
Paraffection ateliers (Lesage, Lemarié, Massaro, Desrues and others)
1997
Why
Through its Paraffection subsidiary, Chanel began buying specialist couture suppliers in embroidery, featherwork, shoemaking, buttons and jewelry to preserve their skills.
Impact
These ateliers, many now housed in the le19M building in Paris, supply Chanel and other fashion houses.
Outcome
The portfolio has grown over time, including the goldsmith Goossens in 2005.
Holland & Holland
1996
Why
Chanel's owners bought the London gunmaker and outfitter as a heritage British luxury label.
Impact
It remained a small, separately run business that never became central to Chanel.
Outcome
Chanel sold Holland & Holland in 2021.
Eres
1996
Why
Added a French luxury swimwear and lingerie label known for fabric innovation.
Impact
Eres runs as a standalone brand with its own boutiques.
Outcome
Still owned by Chanel.
Chanel S.A.'s Growth & Acquisition Strategy
Chanel's growth plan rests on creative renewal under Matthieu Blazy, continued price increases on core leather goods, larger and more private boutiques for top clients, expansion in watches, fine jewelry and beauty, and vertical integration of its supply chain. The company said it opened more than 40 boutiques in 2025 and invested over $700 million in suppliers and craft, and it continues to add capacity in leather goods and ateliers.
How Chanel S.A. Makes Money
Chanel makes money from one brand sold across two very different businesses. Fashion (ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes, couture) is sold only through Chanel's own boutiques, with no online sales of handbags or clothing in most markets and no discounting. Fragrance and beauty (No. 5, Coco Mademoiselle, Bleu de Chanel, makeup and skincare) reach a far wider audience through department stores, perfumeries and e-commerce. Watches and fine jewelry, including the J12 and high-jewelry collections, add a third, smaller category. Chanel does not publish category revenue splits. The house owns much of its supply chain: its Paraffection subsidiary holds specialist ateliers such as Lesage (embroidery) and Lemarié (feathers and flowers), many housed at the le19M building in Paris, and Chanel grows flowers for No. 5 in Grasse.
Chanel Acquisitions FAQ
What was Chanel's strategic consolidation under Chanel Limited in London in 2018?
In 2018, the Wertheimer family consolidated all of Chanel's historical regional subsidiaries, intellectual property, and operating entities into a single unified UK-registered holding company, Chanel Limited, headquartered in London.
What artisan craft houses (Métiers d'Art) has Chanel acquired through Paraffection?
Through Paraffection, Chanel acquired over 40 historic French artisan suppliers, including embroiderer Lesage (2002), feather and flower artisan Lemarié (1996), milliner Maison Michel (1997), bootmaker Massaro (2002), button maker Desrues (1985), and pleater Lognon (2013).
What luxury watchmaking acquisitions and equity stakes has Chanel completed?
Chanel acquired Swiss luxury watch manufacture G&F Châtelain in 1993 (enabling the creation of the ceramic J12 watch), acquired Bell & Ross in 1998, purchased a 20% stake in luxury movement maker Kenissi in 2019, and acquired a 20% stake in independent haute horlogerie brand MB&F in 2024.
What luxury leather tanneries has Chanel acquired to secure raw materials?
To secure premium lambskin, calfskin, and exotic leathers, Chanel acquired top French and Italian tanneries, including Tanneries Bodin-Joyeux in 2013, Tanneries Haas in 2019, and Italian high-end leather specialist Samanta in 2019.
What wine and vineyard estates does Chanel own?
Chanel owns premier historic Bordeaux wine châteaux, including Château Rauzan-Ségla (Margaux) acquired in 1994, Château Canon (Saint-Émilion) acquired in 1996, and Napa Valley cult winery St. Supéry Estate Vineyards acquired in 2015.
What silk and textile mills has Chanel acquired in Europe?
Chanel acquired historic European textile specialists, including French silk weaver Moulinages de Riaz and luxury knitwear manufacturer Barrie Knitwear in Hawick, Scotland (2012), preserving high-quality cashmere manufacturing.
Why does Chanel acquire its critical artisan and material suppliers?
Chanel acquires its niche suppliers to prevent historic French and European craftsmanship traditions from going extinct, guarantee exclusive production capacity for Chanel collections, and shield artisan workshops from rival luxury conglomerates.
How does Chanel manage and govern its acquired artisan workshops?
Chanel allows all acquired Métiers d'Art ateliers to operate autonomously, encouraging them to continue creating bespoke collections for other luxury fashion houses (including Dior, Valentino, and Saint Laurent) to maintain creative vitality.
Does Chanel own its suppliers?
Yes, to protect their supply chain from conglomerates like LVMH, Chanel created "Paraffection," aggressively acquiring dozens of highly specialized, independent French artisan workshops (like embroiderers, feather makers, and glove makers) to ensure exclusive access to their craft.
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